Відео

I'm sorry, I don't work for Poolin so I don't know about that. Try their contact page. richword.com/pages/contact Their website has shipping to several countries and even though Pakistan wasn't listed, maybe you can get an answer from them?

LOL, Avenue Q. Beware of puppet addiction, it's hard to stop making them. I'm working on some sock puppet designs right now, because I can't seem to stop making more puppets.

I took a long summer vacation but now I'm back to making more videos. Thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful!

That was one of the first questions I asked them! ( ͡~ ͜ʖ ͡°) According to the Poolin rep's email AND their Amazon listing, it has a metal frame inside. It's pretty easy to remove the side cover to peek inside, so I can verify it DOES have a metal frame, not plastic. I'll cover that in my future review of the machine. (In case others are wondering, a plastic frame doesn't hold up well over time and many cheap sewing machines have plastic frames rather than metal)

Oh no! Just be patient and keep trying new things that you learn in my beginner videos. You will make mistakes, and you will get better. It's a learning curve. What machine did you get? I'm playing with a new machine this week and my first stitchout did NOT look good. It's kinda like learning to dance with a new partner. (●'◡'●)

The Brother SE2000. I've been trying everything the past two months. I feel like I'm taking a college course lol!! I've tried better thread, different needles, stabilizers, fabric, magnetic hoops, I find conflicting info, no magnetic spools, the bobbin L or K, different weights 40 or 60 for the top thread... 60-90 for the bobbin. I refuse to give up. I've spent too much money. There aren't alot of classes where I live. I went to a sew and vac shop and he acted like I was an idiot and he said my machine is fine. Well, sir, it is screwed up somehow and yes I'm an idiot. Lol!

@@sweetchickies7 That sounds terribly frustrating. Hopefully my beginner series of videos will help you figure out what's wrong. Sometimes it's something embarrassingly stupid like the bobbin is in backwards. (been there!) Practice with 40wt top thread and 60 wt bobbin, and some medium cut-away stabilizer with a woven cotton fabric. And use designs preloaded on your machine. That eliminates a lot of variables. I believe the SE2000 benefits greatly from a thread stand, otherwise you'll get more thread breaks and bird nesting. And as a last resort, I just starting offering video consults. If you're interested, you can book a video chat with me here: superpeer.com/ballyhoocreations/-/machine-embroidery-troubleshooting

Great suggestions!!! I've had the different materials on my to-do list for a long time and haven't tackled that series yet. I'm no expert at multi-hooped designs but since I'm speaking to a quilt guild next year, I guess I need to get good at it. Stitching outside the "normal" is my happy place and I have an older video you may have missed ua-cam.com/video/DxU7JI6tvyE/v-deo.html but my style is different now so maybe I'll make an updated version. (◔◡◔)

Ah, you're my people @Faloola !!! ƪ(˘⌣˘)ʃ

LOL on the organization. I've said I'll do a studio tour as soon as it's clean...that was 3 years ago. (◔◡◔) But it's still a goal. Let's keep watching those new machines and see if they surprise us. It seems like the features are more in the quilting area than machine embroidery.

Hi Vicki! Hope things are well in your part of the world. 😁

Hi @tenapeters8107 ! Have you already watched the beginner series? (●'◡'●) ua-cam.com/video/KWCsw5AGqbE/v-deo.html I know we had a comment conversation on the buyers video. I wanted to be sure you knew about that playlist where I tackle all the mistakes and confusion on the machine embroidery learning curve. Even seasoned veterans pick up a few new tips. I'll be going over highlights when I play with the new Poolin machine which you can use as a skills refresher.

@@BallyhooCreations Hi. No I haven’t watched it yet but will definitely check it out. Thanks

Hi @2nywa2 - I don't mind sharing about digitizing but I'm not an expert at traditional digitizing. My expertise is around in-the-hoop digitizing with minimal surface designs. Have you seen the UA-cam channels for John Deere or Sue Brown at OML Embroidery? They go much deeper into traditional digitizing than I ever could.

I agree! And I might be ahead of the game for once, because I covered that topic in detail, along with a similar one on thread storage. ( ͡~ ͜ʖ ͡°) I hope this is what you're looking for ... ua-cam.com/video/MaIPJcyQJOY/v-deo.html

I'm so glad you shared that @monicajackson7266 because I'm also a person who believes in paying for quality, but I'm as frugal as they come! For me, the babylock 6 needle was worth every penny. (bought it used for $5k) But I'm not a "top of the line" person. The Viking Designer1 ruined it for me. It was top of the line when it came out and had so many engineering issues it was worse than the entry level Viking machine I traded in. Ah well. We all have our stitchy stories. In-the-hoop tips and tricks is in the video making queue!

Great idea! I've put that in my planner.

I know! I was complaining about the summer heat to an IKEA customer service rep, then she told me she was in India and I felt stupid! Our 106 degrees is nothing compared to their 123 degrees. Hope you're staying cool where ever you are! (●'◡'●)

Sorry, I didn't try the laser on my multineedle since mine has a built-in laser. Each brand has a differently shaped head so it's going to be different on each model. But it should be similar to the single needle, once you figure out WHERE on the multineedle head to attach the unit. I don't think I would use the tacky putty on the multineedle either - they vibrate much more and it could fall into your hoop. Yikes!

I'm sorry you're feeling frustrated by applique, it IS a tricky technique and I will create a video for it in the next couple of weeks. In the meantime, there are two MAIN reasons applique can look messy. One is your scissors - applique scissors are usually required and different people prefer different ones. And some designs don't have a thick enough satin stitch or leave enough room between the tack-down and satin stitch for you to be successful. So be sure you're buying designs from a reputable digitizer. I'll cover more tips as soon as I can make a video - you're not the only person who has requested that topic. ( ͡~ ͜ʖ ͡°)

@@BallyhooCreations Thank you so much! You are so lovely with a wealth of knowledge. Ever since I found your channel you are my go to! Looking forward to the video. 🫶🏻 🙏🏻

I'm assuming you mean the Brother SE2000 with a sale price of $1500 vs the Babylock Bloom which goes as low as $2300 on sale. (tip-Labor day is good for machine sales) Brother has THREE 5x7 combo machines, and the Innov-is NS2850D at $2200 is probably more similar to the Bloom. Dealers throw in all kinds of extras so it's hard to compare apples to apples. The SE2000 can be purchased online with no dealer support. It's not unusual to pay $500 to $1000 extra when purchased through a dealer because you get access to their classes and support.

They are very similar machines, both are exclusive to dealers. The designs are different and the Brother includes licensed Disney/Marvel/StarWars. If you're sewing for young kids, the Brother might be a better fit for you. Brother and Disney have weird relationship where ONLY Brother machines can legally stitch Disney trademark characters. Any other design you buy is being sold illegally - and there are tons of people selling those illegal designs while Disney works hard at shutting them down.

Great job! Have fun with your B70!

Babylock Bloom is a good combo machine with 5x7 embroidery field, and I see it on sale at my Babylock dealer for around $2000 right now. If you want the sales and support from a Babylock dealer - that's the way to go. But if you just want that machine at a lower price, then look at the Brother SE2000. Its the SAME machine with different designs loaded on it, but the SE2000 sells for $1300. Since you're into quilting, you might also consider a machine that can do 8x8" designs to fill a quilt block and lean end-to-end quilting - which opens up a whole new way of making quilts.

@@BallyhooCreations thank you for your help. So my next question is, the 8x8 quilting machine you mentioned, is that still a brother combo machine?

@@BallyhooCreations And I’m from Canada. Is that price in US dollars

@@tenapeters8107 Sorry but no, the 8x8 machine is not made by Brother. I was thinking of the Janome 500 which is in your price range but is NOT a combo machine.

@@tenapeters8107 All the prices I show are in US Dollars. You can see my list of all machines at this link on my website: www.ballyhoocreations.com/post/prices-for-every-new-embroidery-machine-make-and-model (it's free)

Since logos tend to be small, any machine with a 4'x4' hoop can stitch those so you have plenty of options. If you plan on using several colors, it's nice to have the threads automatically cut (cutting jump stitches is the feature to look for). The Brother Skitch might be a nice fit for you at under $500. If those logos will be custom creations then you'll need embroidery digitizing software. Check out Embird or Embrilliance for options under $400 that work for any brand of machine. Or you can use Inkstitch which is free but harder to learn. Good luck!

Glad it was helpful!

awesome! I love hearing that!

If all the other threads are working, then it's not your machine. It could be that one spool of thread is actually different than the others. Not sure what color it is, but I've always heard (and cannot verify) that black or other very dark colors have so much dye in them that they behave differently.

you are absolutely right! It's OK if the cable is blue inside, it will still work. The cable doesn't actually "talk" to the machine or USB stick, it just passes the information along. I've been running with this setup for 2 years with no issues. ( ͡~ ͜ʖ ͡°)

Thank you so much. I love hearing from other teachers! I hope you are making progress at taming your machine. Making mistakes is all a part of the journey. Since you've been sewing a long time, just remember not to use your good fabrics while you're on that road. LOL (ʘ ͜ʖ ʘ)

Squished designs are frustrating! When your design gets squished during stitch-out, it's from the force of the stitches pulling the fabric together in one direction more than the other. There are several factors involved in this and you'll hear the words "pull compensation" thrown around a lot. It could be the design wasn't digitized with proper pull compensation, or it could be you are stitching on a lighter fabric than the digitizer intended or you just need to use a stiffer stabilizer. If it's something you digitized yourself, you'll want to learn more about pull-compensation and John Deere's UA-cam channel is a good place for that. (★‿★)

Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching!

I have a separate video all about embroidery machine hoops that explains those things. It's part of my beginner series which might help you a lot if you're just getting started or need a refresher: ua-cam.com/video/MVfrC9JpRy4/v-deo.html

You never know about the honesty or integrity when buying used equipment. Facebook, ebay and etsy have ratings systems which help but they're not foolproof. It's part of the risk involved with getting that lower price. If you're not experienced with buying used equipment, it's better to stick with a dealer. And many dealers have a small selection of used machines for sale.

Any machine can do that. You'll probably want to buy the greek symbols and shields from 3rd party designers on the internet and a google search should be able to find many people selling designs like that for sorority and fraternity gear. Figure out what size you need for greek letters and sheilds and buy a machine with a hoop size that can accommodate your sizes.

Jump stitches are the threads on top of your design when the needle moves from one area to another. Some machines will cut the thread before jumping to the next position, while other machines will drag the thread and you need tiny scissors to cut all those thread on each design. Since you mentioned in another comment that you want a machine for business purposes, the jump stitch issue is a big deal. Some commercial embroiderers prefer to cut those manually so they can get another project on the machine faster, while many home based businesses prefer to have the machine cut those threads so they have less work to do.

I have an older video where I talk a lot more about home versus business use for embroidery machines. I think you'll find that useful ua-cam.com/video/64h2PGaOEIg/v-deo.html And good luck on your embroidery journey!

You would create the wig exactly the same way, just make larger loops of yarn for a bigger head. Use a tape measure to figure out how long you want the hair and find or make something to wrap the yarn around. (a book, a cereal box, etc) It will take some practice to decide how many wraps you need. It depends on how thick your yarn is and how full you want the hairstyle to be.

Janome makes great machines. They are a bit less user friendly than brother/babylock but very high quality.

All embroidery machines can do that and will have a few built-in nature designs. But all new machines have a USB port so you can get any design from the internet and stitch them. The design possibilities are endless.

I try to update this video every 2-3 years. Depends on how fast the technology changes. 😉